The world of wine and the culture surrounding it is one that can be difficult to comprehend for a newcomer. While the majority of beverages are enjoyed because of their fruity, sweet, or otherwise pleasant flavors, the most renowned wines are often earthy and acidic.
The case was no different at this year's Turin Wine Competition. Showcasing plenty of options with whispers of strawberries, raspberries, and even baked apples, the ultimate victor was plenty traditional — Eau Sale's 2024 entry, while theoretically made of grapes, contains strong notes of manure and rotten fish.
"This really is such an exquisite wine. It's quite unlike anything I've tasted before," said judge Ian Rutherford. "Upon first sniff, I was instantly transported to being a little fly at a sprawling cattle ranch — pure ecstasy."
The other judges, all of whom have decades of industry experience, shared similar sentiments.
"When you go to so many competitions, it can begin to feel like 'Oh, another pinot noir. Oh, another cabernet sauvignon.' It starts to blend together, you know?" said Spanish sommelier Manuel Ruiz. "When this wine hit my tongue, I was struck instantly. No longer trying to find elements of fruits, herbs, and mineral flavors, but instead deciphering between salmon, cod, and albacore tuna."
The winemaker, which, despite the French name, is located in Bulgaria, has no qualms with the commentary.
"I was bludgeoned by an angry donkey when I took its water to pour into the vat, so the wine literally contains my blood, sweat, and tears," said owner Blagorodna Glushkov. "I am very pleased to know the judges were able to taste the land so clearly."
Before it ever touches a donkey's lips, the water is taken from Lake Varna, which runs along the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast. However, mismanagement has led to multiple toxic leaks since 2019, making fecal matter even more present in just about all of Eau Sale's products. Further, the water is completely unfiltered to the point that any dead fish that end up in Glushkov's bucket go right into the vat, lending to the unique flavor.
"My wine is the true taste of Bulgaria. The people, the cows, the mud, the water, the pasture — my gift to the world," grinned the winemaker.
The wine's first place selection is sure to bring increased tourism to the region, so Glushkov has some advice — "Don't give the donkeys too much wine. They're angry drunks and they'll kick."
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Photo courtesy of Jamie Street via public domain
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